When megaphone-blaring trucks and microphone-wearing grocery assistants start to be too grating, head SE of Gwangju to the Nagan Fortress and Folk Village for an afternoon of quiet.

Korean National Historic Site #302, for those of you keeping track, Nagan Folk Village (낙안읍성 민속마을) is the best-preserved walled fortress site of the Chosun period. So when you step off the bus after an hour-long ride from Suncheon, you’re landing in a village and culture circa 1397.

Once you pull your eyes from the wind-flapped flags, the village spreads out in a wave of tans and browns. Apart from locals manning two souvenir shops, the village is refreshingly void of tourist shops or attractions, leaving visitors to experience an afternoon of true village life. The straw-thatched roofs of the traditional homes are maintained annually and as authentic as if it were still 700 years ago. Each home is approximately 6 meters long, and has its own garden area and barn. On a recent visit cows were seen roaming the village, a testament that those barns are still in good use.

Past the homes and the two restaurants in the center of the village, are the historical government buildings. The Gaeksa, or guesthouse, was build somewhere around 1450. King’s envoys or special guests stayed here and each 1st and 15th of the month (by the lunar calendar) all the local officials would gather here to bow together toward the King's palace in Seoul.

Other buildings open for viewing include the Donghon (administrative building where judgments where pronounced), Oksaji Prison, Naedonghon (official residence of the magistrate) and Nakminru (a monument in honor of General Im Gyeong-eop).

Head across the village from the entrance gate and you’ll find the museum, which details the daily lives of villagers and includes some well-preserved official documents, household implements and traditional clothing. Also of interest is the display showing the foods of the four seasons.

Interspersed frequently along the edge of the village are precarious steps leading to the top of the 8 meter-thick city wall. If you’re brave enough to conquer the stairs, you’ll get a nice view of the traditional homes from atop the wall and can walk the entire perimeter of the village.

Get there:

Take a direct bus from Gwangcheon Bus Terminal (U-square) to Suncheon (approx 1 hr 30 mins). Bus starts form 5:30am to 11:00pm. Once in Suncheon, walk left out the bus station to the first stoplight. On the same side of the road, catch Suncheon Local Bus No. 61, 63, or 68 to reach Nagan-eupseong.

Cost: 2,000 won per person

Hours: 9:00 am – 6:30 pm

Things to do nearby:

From the village get back on the bus for an additional 35 minutes (last stop) to Songgwang Temple, which is one of the three jewels of Korean Buddhism. You can catch a direct bus from the temple back to Gwangju (5,200 won, tickets can be purchased at the mart in the temple parking area).

By Andrea Galvez