Say Kimchi Archives

The number of the article is  12
  1. [2011/11/21] Wolchusan: the forever hike
  2. [2011/11/09] Get your Ommmm on at a Korean Temple
  3. [2011/08/08] The Say Kimchi Archives: Jeju Motorcycle Diaries
  4. [2010/12/28] The Say Kimchi Archives: Walking the Plank
  5. [2010/12/10] The Say Kimchi Archives: Ain't No Mountain High Enough
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Wolchusan: the forever hike

Posted by GwangJu (at 2011/11/21 09:00)
The following article was written by Andrea Galvez and Say Kimchi News first published it.

The article describes Andrea’s experience of her trip to Wolchul Mountain National Park .


Inspired by an amazing trip we had to Maisan, I joined Pedro Kim and his group from Lonely Korea on another hike on a recent Saturday. This one was touted as more difficult, but really beautiful. The 8km long, 810m high hike up and back down Wolchul Mountain National Park was to take about six hours.

Seven a.m. is pretty darn early for an English Teacher, especially this English Teacher. I work evenings so I stay up late and usually get up late, but not last Saturday. I met my friend, Hannah, and made for U-Square bus terminal where we met Pedro Kim and the rest of the Lonely Korea members. By 8:30 we had bought our 6,400 won bus tickets and were making the one hour and ten minute ride to Youngam, a small town five minutes from the park. Taxis chauffeured us to the starting gate for 5,000 won, and by 10:30 we were hiking up the mountain.


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This was serious. We did some hiking, but for the most part we climbed over rocks and up ladder-like stairs. There were multiple points where I had to use both hands and feet to make it over rocks and boulders.

After 1.6 km and about an hour (I have a terrible concept of time that only multiplies when I’m on the mountain) we finally climbed over a ridge to see what I was both anticipating and dreading. Gureumdari Bridge connects one ridge of the mountain to the other, 120 meters from the ground, and I had to walk across it.

After some squabbling about who had to walk out first, we made it across the 52m long bridge and started up what felt like a ladder but looked like stairs. They went straight up. We spent the next two hours picking our way up stairs and around rocks and holding onto rope and metal bars for dear life. We were very high up, and the view of the golden rice patties below was simply amazing.

About 100 meters before the peak was the Tongcheonmun Gate, which is a tiny cave that pierces the mountain so you can squeeze from one side to the other. When we reached this, we thought we had reached the actual peak, so were pretty disappointed to be greeted by more stairs on the other side of the cave.

When we finally made it to Cheonhwangbong Peak we were joined by Pedro and Darren, who had waited for us (there were some serious hikers on this trip, they had left us in their dust hours before).

The next 4.6km were spent going up and down (and then REALLY down) between rocky peaks and valleys of reeds. We saw a brave soul hang-glide off the top of the mountain, and took pictures of “Pig Rock”, “Man’s Power Rock” (I’ll let you guess what that one looked like) and a lot of other unnamed rocks.

Since the trail was mostly rocks there were a few points where I had to hesitate to make sure I was following the right crack in the mountain. But for the most part, the trail was well marked and well-maintained, in true Korean style.
At the end of the path was the impressive Dogapsa Temple, built by Doseon Guksa, who is considered the first fung shei expert in Korea.

After slightly more than the recommended six hours, we were off the mountain and in a taxi back to Youngam and then a bus back to Gwangju, feeling pretty proud of ourselves and really, really tired.

LEARN MORE: 
Read about Wolchusan National Park at: http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264286&nearBy=tran&#nearbyMap


Say Kimchi News is an English-language online news source written by expats and published by Say Kimchi Recruiting.

It has shared and will continue to share its many excellent articles with Gwangju Blog readers.

Click here to see other articles in our Say Kimchi Archives.

2011/11/21 09:00 2011/11/21 09:00
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Get your Ommmm on at a Korean Temple

Posted by GwangJu (at 2011/11/09 09:06)


A foreign teacher once described a temple stay to me as “the best Korean experience I never want to have again.” So with that glowing recommendation, I signed myself up for a two day, one night experience at Mihwangsa Temple. Expecting the worst and hoping for the best I headed off to the southernmost tip of Korea.

I arrived at Mihwangsa and was struck by the place’s beauty. With Dharma Mountain as the backdrop, I could immediately see why this particular temple was so popular. My first mistake (and yes, there are more to come) was asking someone on the silent retreat where the “reception desk” was. I ended up locating the desk on my own, checked in, paid up (50,000 won for the two days and one night), was issued an extremely oversized pair of pants and a vest that hit my knees and was then shown to my room.

While Mihwangsa did have a schedule, it allowed plenty of free time to hike, explore or just sit around and relax. Here is a run down of what you can expect while on a Temple Stay.



5:00-6:00 PM: Instruction on Basic Temple Etiquette
We gathered at the temple (6 people in total: 3 French, 2 Americans and 1 Korean) to learn how to bow properly, allowing us to 1) not make total fools of ourselves during the chanting and 2) see how much Buddhism influences Korean culture.



6:00-6:40 PM: Gongyang (Public Dinner)
The first meal was what I might call a learning experience. I took too much food. The French guests talked too loudly. The monks got annoyed with all of us. We got scolded. Learning experience complete. All meals are supposed to be quiet (including the way you handle bowls and eating utensils) so as not to disturb others, especially those on silent retreats. 
The delicious, wholesome food, most of which was grown right there at the temple, left me feeling satisfied and clean (and very excited to hit up Paris Baguette on my way home).



7:00 PM: Yebul (Evening Chanting)
Think of this as one of those awkward experiences where even when you try to do it right, you will most likely sound (and probably look) like a total idiot. Having already learned to bow properly, I entered the temple and found a free mat. With my book of chants (complete with the English translation and phonetic spelling), we waited for the monks to begin and then joined in. The 30 minutes of chanting gave me time to think and left me feeling both relaxed and tired, due to all of the exercise getting up and down (think Catholic Church service meets yoga class).

Temple Stays are popular programs for expats at temples around Korea/Megan Hatch



7:30-8:30 PM: Dharma Talk Over Tea
Tea Time was by far my favorite part of the Temple Stay. We were able to sit with a monk, drink green tea and ask questions. We learned how individuals become monks, a little about Buddhism, that green tea is best when brewed at 78° C and also works wonders for hangovers. Just for fun, the monk explained different types of makale and asked us to “one shot” our cups of green tea, begging the question….“Wait, I thought monks weren’t allowed to drink?” His response managed to get lost in translation.



10:00 PM: Sleep
Asleep by 10 PM on a Saturday night may seem a bit crazy (especially for the party crowd), but with a 4 AM wake-up bell, I was in bed at 9:30 PM.



4:00 AM: Wake Up-Bell (By bell, they mean GIANT bell that can be heard in the sea.)
Did I seriously pay 50,000 won for someone to wake me up at 4 AM? And on a Sunday? I must admit, though, getting up at 4 AM isn’t half bad since I was in bed the night before by 10 with nothing stronger to drink than green tea.



4:20-5:00 AM: Yebul (Morning Chanting & Walking Meditation)
The morning chanting, very similar to the evening chanting (besides everyone being very tired), was followed by a walking meditation. We walked single file behind the monk in circles around the courtyard. (It is not a race, so stay in line and don’t try to pass people.)



5:00-5:30 AM: Sitting Meditation
The sitting meditation was yet another perk of the temple stay and where I learned that monks are extremely flexible. Here we learned how to meditate and practiced yoga. This was a great way to start the day and understand just how healthy the Buddhist lifestyle is for both mind and body.



6:30-7:10 AM: Gongyang (Public Breakfast)
We spent another meal in silence. I didn’t take too much food this time. I am learning. Once finished, I rinsed my bowl and drank the water inside (a rather poor replacement for a morning cup of coffee, especially after waking up at 4 AM).



7:30-8:30 AM: Oolyeok (Community Work)

Community service at this temple included helping with mailings/Megan Hatch

I expected more sweeping/cleaning type work, but instead we stuffed envelopes for Mihwangsa. Yes, even temples have mailing lists. Being American, I could not understand why everyone wasn’t working as fast as possible so that we could go and do something else. Once the mailings were finished, we headed to a larger room to make prayer beads, which we were able to bring home.



8:30 AM: Free Time
I laid down for 30 minutes before heading out on a hike. We had the option to do another walking meditation, but as I was more in the mood for a hike I opted out. And the walking meditations were kind of starting to remind me of one of those depressing scenes out of some prison movie. So, I climbed to the top of Dharma Mountain and from the top was able to see the South Sea and both Wando and Jindo Islands.



10:00-11:25 AM: Yebul (Chanting, optional)
I skipped it…



11:30-12:10 PM: Gongyang (Public Lunch)
One last silent meal.



12:10 PM: Free Time
I packed up and headed home.

If you would like to visit Mihwangsa or any other temple in Korea, check out the websites below.
Don’t forget to pack a flashlight, towel, comfortable clothes and a cup for drinking. Mihwangsa allows friends and couples to stay in a private room together for 50,000 won each, and by private I mean no lock, sliding door and a bathroom shared by all. Different temples, however, have different rules. Whether you want a break from the crazy nightlife of Korea, need some time to relax and think or just want to absorb some Korean culture, a temple stay is the way to go. I believe that if you haven’t tried a temple stay, you haven’t truly experienced Korea. Despite the many awkward moments and very early wake up, I admit that I may actually want to visit Mihwangsa Temple again.

Well, maybe.

Websites:
http://eng.templestay.com/index.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309683
2011/11/09 09:06 2011/11/09 09:06
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The Say Kimchi Archives: Jeju Motorcycle Diaries

Posted by GwangJu (at 2011/08/08 09:10)

The following article was written by Marion Gregory and Say Kimchi News first published it here.

The article describes Marion’s experience motorcycling around Jeju Island with several of her friends.


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While looking into travel options for summer vacation, some friends and I were keen on sticking around Korea to see more of the local culture.

One destination we’d heard nothing but good things about was Jeju Island. Also known as Cheju, “Home of Hallasan”, “Island of the Gods”, and “Korea’s Hawaii,” this little jewel is a mere four-hour ferry ride from Mokpo in the Korea Strait.

The options to get there are varied (and cheap!) and with all of the information we found on the internet about places to stay, things to see and pictures to be had, there didn’t seem to be a better place to go for some sun and pre-second semester relaxation.

Four Canadians, two travel packs, camping gear, and two motorcycles later we drove southwest to Mokpo on the number one highway to meet our ferry.

Ferries leave regularly to Jeju from Mokpo, Incheon, Busan, and Wando. It is also possible to take a flight from most major cities for a comparable price.

Booking our tickets was easy, thanks to the help of a Korean friend, but there are English speakers working at the ferry terminals who can help book tickets.

Prices vary depending on what kind of accommodation you’d like while aboard (anything from a space on the floor to a double bed with a picture window).

We chose seats for 39,500 won each and paid 14,000 won for each motorcycle. The ferry staff was organized, helpful, and spoke excellent English, making our 9 AM departure painless.

Once we hit Jeju City’s port, it became obvious that this was a place very much concerned with ensuring every visitor has a good time. We’d had the option to pre-book tours on the ferry, with the promise of a full refund on any tickets we didn’t use, but we decided to search out a tourist information booth instead. Jeju Port has a well-stocked information booth, complete with maps and pamphlets in English or any of Asia’s major languages.

Our bible for the trip became the Welcome to Jeju pamphlet, which had information, pictures and phone numbers for every major site, along with a listing of accommodations and an island map that also included Jeju City and Seogwipo-si roadmaps.

All we had to do was pick a place, point the bikes, and ride.

As any Korean will tell you, a trip to Jeju is incomplete without a visit to Halla Mountain. Sitting directly in the centre of the island, this now dormant volcano is also Korea’s tallest peak at 1950 m.

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The trailheads are a twenty minute drive from Jeju City or, for those who are interested, there’s a campground at the base of Gwaneumsa Trail.

Only three routes are available on the mountain as it is a protected environment. Two of those trails (Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak) will take you all the way up to the sulphur lake at the peak. An early start is definitely recommended as a round trip takes about nine hours and getting down can be a bit tricky in the dark.

There are also signs along the trail to let you know how much farther you have to get by a certain time before you are supposed to be turned back by park staff.

If you’re heading that way, make sure that you also check the weather. We took Gwaneumsa trail up to the peak, but the lake was hidden by a very nasty and windy cloud, making our descent down Seongpanak a bit hastier than we would have liked.

Jeju is not without its tourist traps, the most popular of these being Loveland, Mini Mini Land and the Trick Art Museum. Loveland is a sex culture park that was created by twenty artists from Hongik University in 2002. It boasts the most liberal sculptures you’ll see in Korea and is only open to those 18 and over. Mini Mini Land is an outdoor, slightly run-down display of miniature world landmarks, such as the Forbidden City and the Eiffel Tower, giving your short trip to Jeju an international feel. The Trick Art Museum has famous paintings on display in such a way that you can stand near them and become part of the picture. These places are great for an afternoon of fun and each costs around 7,000 won for entry.

Try to get there very early or toward closing time as the crowds get feisty when everyone is trying to take pictures.

The best parts of Jeju, though, are the natural sights you don’t see too often on the mainland. Because Jeju is a volcanic island, the soil is rich and the vegetation is a great mix of tropical plants and coniferous forest.

There is also an abundance of waterfalls, lava tubes, caves, trails, beaches, and off-shore islands to explore. Jungmun Beach is a popular spot on the south coast and has a resort town nearby. The beach itself is impressive as the sea bed drops off very near the shore, creating powerful waves that are as much fun to watch as they are to swim in. You can also partake in many marine sports, such as parasailing, jetskiing, scuba diving, and fishing. Further east, past the resort, you can find impressive rock formations and waterfalls, including Jeongang Waterfall, which falls directly into the sea.

If, by this point of your trip, you are all Jeju-ed out and want to head back to the city, hang on for one more day. Just off the northeast coast is an island called Udo which, I have to say, was my favourite place on the trip.

There is a cheap ferry (about 7,000 won one way) near Seongsan to this little island that has a lot to offer. You can take your own transportation to the island or rent anything from a golfcart to an ATV once you’re there. Watch out when driving, as the roads are narrower and curvier here than on the main island and, with so many honeymooning couples, it can get a bit tricky.

A major facet of Jeju’s culture resides on Udo: the haenyo or women divers. These women are known for being able to dive up to twenty metres near rocky outcroppings and can hold their breath for nearly two minutes while in search of shellfish. There are many places to see these divers, including the shooting location for the movie “My Mother the Mermaid”, which focuses on the family of a haenyo diver.

Alongside the rocky outcroppings are white sand beaches with crystal-clear water. You may want to stay away from the “famous” Hongjodangoe coral beach, as it is comprised mainly of large chunks of coral that have washed up on shore. Go instead to Hagosudong Beach on the east coast or, better yet, keep your eyes peeled for hidden beaches along the way.

If you are interested in visiting Jeju, taking or renting your own transportation is highly recommended. Although the island has a great highway system and buses can be found anywhere, the schedules are not as tourist-friendly as having your own wheels can be; taxis are also expensive. If you don’t have a scooter or motorbike of your own, there are plenty of rental places around the island, usually found on the main roads and near tourist sites. It is also possible to bike around the island on your own power, pedalling on the bike path that runs alongside the highway. Don’t be too worried about trying to keep up with traffic: the path is divided from the highway by a curb.

Camping is also a great option if you’re looking to keep the budget to a minimum. A listing of campsites is available at any information centre and most have bathroom and shower facilities.

It is also possible to find a nice piece of field off the main road to throw a tent on if you’re not near a government campsite. If camping’s not your thing, minbaks or pensions are available along the coast and in most towns. We were able to find rooms for 40,000 won or less, including bedding, towels, hot water and air conditioning or a fan.

Jeju has become one of my favourite places in Korea and I would gladly write another hundred pages about everything we did and wanted to do while we were there.

It’s easy to measure the enjoyment you get out of a place by how willing you are to leave it at the end of your time there. On our last day, we were all brainstorming excuses for skipping work to live on Jeju instead.

It is a welcoming, easy-to-navigate, gorgeous place and you would be doing yourself a disservice if you didn’t see it at least once while you’re here. Who needs to go to Thailand or the Philippines to get their bronze on?

Jeju may be just a short distance away but it will leave you wondering what took you so long to get there.

If you’d like more information on travelling Jeju, visit:

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr (for information on getting to and around the island)
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/travel2/cheju
http://english.tour2jeju.net (Jeju’s official tourist site)

By Marion Gregory

Say Kimchi News is an English-language online news source written by expats and published by Say Kimchi Recruiting.

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It has shared and will continue to share its many excellent articles with Gwangju Blog readers.

Click here to see other articles in our Say Kimchi Archives.

2011/08/08 09:10 2011/08/08 09:10
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The Say Kimchi Archives: Walking the Plank

Posted by GwangJu (at 2010/12/28 08:25)

The following article was written by Finbarr Bermingham and Say Kimchi News first published it here.  It describes his experience sky jumping in Daegu.

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I’ve always been a bit of a coward, yet paradoxically, always been pretty keen on scaring the crap out of myself. I think I forget the first part until right before I’m about to do the second. Last week I had a couple of days off work, so I decided I’d go to Daegu to jump off a building. Daegu is Korea’s third city (if, like many, you consider Incheon to be part of Seoul) and home to Woobang Tower, the tallest tower in Asia. They’ve built an amusement park around it, Woobang Tower Land, which seems similar in scale to Gwangju’s own Family Land: pretty small, but not bad for an afternoon if you’re at a loose end.

Woobang Tower is 202m high (312m in altitude) and is similar in structure to the CN Tower in Toronto, formerly the world’s tallest free-standing structure (553m) and one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World. At the top of Woobang Tower is a revolving restaurant. There’s a 360° observation deck which gives you stunning, panoramic views of the city below which, incidentally, is huge. Coming from a small Irish town, Gwangju seemed sprawling to me (especially from the top of Mudeung Mountain), but Daegu is a massive step up in terms of scale. From the top of Woobang Tower, you really get an idea of how big it is.

We set off from Gwangju early in the morning and arrived around lunchtime. There were three of us, two jumpers and a photographer, and we met another friend in Daegu who jumped with us. We were all excited; laughing and joking without giving a moment’s consideration to what we were about to do. That was until the Tower became visible in the distance on the taxi ride to Woobang Land. It dominates the horizon. The closer we got, the taller it seemed and when we were within a few hundred metres of it, we saw a little gangway protruding from near the top. This was where we would fall from.

Feeling a little sheepish (and not a little sick) we made our way around the perimeter of the park until we reached the foot of the Tower. We paid (for three people, it was 100,000W, very reasonable) and got on the elevator for the 76th floor. The laughing stopped. Suddenly, it wasn’t funny anymore. Looking at each other for some sort of comfort was futile; the others were either praying or holding their hands over their faces. Yikes. There was a teenage girl ahead of us in the queue so we could see exactly what we had let ourselves in for and as she shimmied closer to the edge of the “plank”, white as a ghost, I felt nothing but sympathy!

The jump itself is not a bungee, which I initially thought, but a sky-jump. It’s like base jumping, except you have a cable attached to your back. Kitted out in the finest race suits this side of Talladega Nights, we decided on which order we would jump in (I was second) and then waited. As with most adrenaline-based activities, this is by far the worst part. Every sort of eventuality runs through your head until eventually, you’ve thought of all of the worst things that can happen and an accepting calm descends over you; at least for a minute. When my turn came I was led out to walk the plank. They strapped a harness onto me and explained a few things to me about what was going to happen. The problem is, I don’t speak Korean. I just smiled and nodded, such has become my custom in this fine nation.

I stood at the edge of the gangway for about a minute, getting properly strapped in. Then, I leaned forward, looking at the ground beneath me… it seemed like miles away! The attendant told me to let go and just like that, I was in suspended animation, 132 metres above a sprawling Korean metropolis. Hanging there, horizontally, was one of the most surreal experiences I’ve had. I was trying to squeeze out a smile, as the Korean guy is taking pictures of me (as part of the package, you get some photos and a certificate). And after what seemed like minutes (maximum hang time: 30 seconds), I was falling. This part is not frightening. You drop at a leisurely speed to a target at the bottom, where you’re released from your harness and left to ponder your “achievement”. Breathless and a little befuddled, I was greeted at the bottom by my friends. What a rush!

For only 33,000W, the Woobang Tower Sky Jump is highly recommended.

By Finbarr Bermingham

Say Kimchi News is an English-language online news source written by expats and published by Say Kimchi Recruiting.

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2010/12/28 08:25 2010/12/28 08:25
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The Say Kimchi Archives: Ain't No Mountain High Enough

Posted by GwangJu (at 2010/12/10 08:53)

The following article was written by Britton Ingleheart and Say Kimchi News first published it here.

It describes Britton's climb up Jeju's Mount Halla. After the low temperatures over the past few days I needed something to remind me that winter does end.

 

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Place: Mt. Halla, Jeju, South Korea
Height: 1950 meters
Length: Gwaneumsa Route: 6.8km
Time: 8-9 hours. I did it in exactly 8 hours.
Condition: Trail – grueling; Me – exhausted.
Trail: Straight up, nonstop. Rugged and ever changing.
Purpose: To see the Heavenly Lake that awaits those willing to risk life and limb.
Mission: Complete.


Mt. Halla, the highest mountain of South Korea and the one that dominates the island of Jeju, is not a mountain to take lightly. Located in the center of Jeju Island, Mt. Halla is a sight to be seen. But what is more than the mountain itself is what the summit holds. The crater lake. The sole purpose that draws many to attempt the climb.

While I was preparing my adventure to Jeju, I came across pictures of the famed Baengnok (뱅녹) Lake. From the moment I saw it, I knew that I wanted to see it with my own eyes.

I spent a few days roaming around Jeju and seeing waterfalls and temples. I took a day of rest on Sunday and then on Monday, I got up early for the adventure that still has my legs fretting any type of climbing.

The climb started out relatively easy, but about half way there, the trail started to incline, steadily. And a short km later, I was huffing and puffing trying to catch my breath. But I was determined to get to the top, so on I pushed. And as I passed Koreans on their way down, I was greeted with smiles and cheers. When I reached the first check station, I took a 10-minute break for a snack of Snickers, an egg sandwich and some beef jerky and a ton of water.

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Then, after talking to some Koreans about myself and why I was hiking, I pressed on. The trail really took a turn for the wicked. And the more you tried to go up, the more the mountain seemed to pull you back. Like gravity was trying to throw you down. And not to mention that the higher you go, the thinner the air.

But not long after the first rest station you clear the tree line and a beautiful vista is revealed. At this sight, you almost want to say that it is enough. It can’t get prettier than this.

Let me tell you that it can. And it does.

This is not the summit. But we are on our way. Like something out of a fantasy movie or video game this stunning scenery hits you. And as you almost collapse from fatigue, exhaustion and overheating, the mountain throws you a favor and it starts to lightly rain. A welcomed sign from the Gods that they favor your endeavor. So I picked myself up and continued on, letting the rain cool my body and catching what I could for hydration.

Then I found a second gift, pure, drinkable, mountain stream water. It was perfect timing too, because my camel pack was dry and my water bottle was on its last leg. The clear, clean, crisp mountain water truly was a gift from the Gods. Because as I drank it, I could feel my energy return. I also came to find out that drinking this water adds 100 years to your life. Just like a video game.

The final push. Now, you are over 1000 meters high, you are exhausted from the 6km you’ve just pushed yourself up. And now you have .8 more to go. Do you decide that this is it, you’ve seen enough? Do you give up so close to your goal? No! The mountain is testing you, don’t let its ever increasing trails and thinning air detour you. Push! The reward is waiting!

Steel your resolve and swallow your pride, Heaven is waiting! This is what I heard in my head as I took one last break and gulp of fresh mountain water.

Cracking my neck and repeating Nietzsche in my head “What doesn’t destroy me only makes me stronger”, I got my final wind. And to Heaven, I climbed, almost could say I crawled.

But when I broke the summit, I could feel the grueling agony of the hike lift. All when I saw it.

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There is it folks, the crater lake. The grand prize for killing yourself. I still feel like a part of me is still there, marveling.

By Britton Inglehart

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Say Kimchi News is an English-language online news source written by expats and published by Say Kimchi Recruiting.

It has shared and will continue to share its many excellent articles with Gwangju Blog readers.

Click here to see other articles in our Say Kimchi Archives.

2010/12/10 08:53 2010/12/10 08:53
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